Monday, June 24, 2013

30 Before 30: Our long trip! Taylor's School and Village

June 17, 2013 – Jakarta to Surabaya to Pacet

We arrived in Surabaya around 3pm and found a car to take us first to the mall for some essentials and then on to Pacet, where Taylor lived when he was in Indonesia.  Pacet is a small town about an hour and a half from Surabaya.  Before arriving, we were told that we could only get a reservation for the first night at the hotel near his school, but were relieved to find when we arrived that they could accommodate us all three nights.

The Sativa is a beautiful little oasis with views of the rice patties all around and gorgeous hidden lagoon pools.  We were feeling pretty tired from the long day of travelling, so we just hung out in our room, got dinner, and went to bed relatively early.

June 18, 2013 – Pacet

Our first full day in Pacet started with a quick trip to the Sativa Pool.  It’s a beautiful pool set among the rice patties with ladies carrying water jugs acting as fountains.  
The Pool
After about 20 minutes we left for breakfast.  After breakfast, we decided to play tennis for a bit.We went to the hotel lobby and asked about borrowing a racket and balls and using the court.  After waiting a few minutes, Taylor went back in to check on the status of our rental (ie. Why are we waiting at the office, is there somewhere we can just go to get the supplies we need).  They told Taylor something cryptic about someone needing to eat before we could play tennis.  We had no idea.  We waited a few minutes longer and after a while, a man pulled up on a motorcycle without shoes and carrying two tennis rackets and a bag of tennis balls . Apparently this was the tennis supplies guy who is not associated with the hotel but whom they call when they need tennis supplies.  Apparently, “Provider of Tennis Rackets and Balls” is a job in Pacet J  

Tennis!
More photos from around the Sativa:
Waterfall
Surrounding scenery

Gorgeous pond and grounds
We played for just half an hour because it was so hot and we had to get ready to visit with our friends.

Around noon, Tutik, her husband Ferry, her son Erland, another teacher, Habib, his wife Laily and his daughter, Taylor and I (that’s 8 people if you’re counting!) piled in Habib’s SUV and headed out for a lunch of fresh-caught grilled fish called gurami.

Along the way, we came to a large suspension bridge and pulled over.  On the bridge, there were two motorcycles selling food off the back of them (they have this contraption that holds food and the supplies necessary to prepare and serve it).  They bought us food from both to try.  The first one was some sort of fermented rice dish that you eat cold.  It has rice-like pancakes floating in it.  When we were eating, I mentioned to Taylor that the dish looked like something that would just destroy your stomach.  How prophetic as you will see.  The other food was these small meatballs on a skewer and coated in peanut and sweet soy sauce.  
Looking a little afraid...
Afterward, we had a yummy lunch of rice, fish, vegetables and sweet tea.  
The crew
After lunch, we visited Taylor’s school for a bit, practicing English with the students, taking photos, and allowing Taylor to catch up with some of his old teacher friends.   
Us with some students
The school
Taylor and Mr. Cecep in front of the school's sign
After the school, we went to the principal, Mr. Cecep's house.  When Taylor left Indonesia, Mr. Cecep actually moved into his old house, but he had since upgraded to a new house that he wanted us to see.

Mr. Cecep, his wife Indah, and two of their children
Us with the baby :)
After the visit to Mr. Cecep’s, we headed back toward our hotel with a stop at the old Warung’s that Taylor used to eat at for some Ute Ute (friend carrots and cabbage with dipping sauce) and Roti Bakar (baked bread filled with chocolate, strawberry jam, or peanuts).

This guy used to sell Taylor Bakso, and he remembered him!
At the Ute Ute stand with Taylor's friends :)
We were wiped out and completely stuffed full of cookies/juice/Sprite/fish/meatballs/fermented rice, so we did literally nothing the rest of the night except eat the food we got and go to bed.

June 19, 2013 – Hotel Sativa

Taylor woke up extremely sick.  Tough to pinpoint which foreign food was the culprit, but suffice to say he spent most of the day in the bathroom or bed.  We completely bailed on all plans to visit Taylor’s school and village and spent the entire day at the hotel.  Since I was feeling fine, I spent time walking around the resort and laying out at the pool.  Taylor was feeling well enough in the afternoon to order a massage ($5 for 1 hour!).  Other than that we did almost nothing all day!

June 20, 2013 – Pacet to Surabaya

Since we didn’t do anything the day before, we got up pretty early to head up toward Taylor’s old village to say hello to his old friends and neighbors.  Since no one there really has Internet or anything, we didn’t have any way to let them know ahead of time that we were coming, so basically after three years, we just strolled into the village to say hello to people.  

It was so cool though because everyone remembers Taylor. True to form, they all invited us into their houses and offered us drinks and snacks.  Our first stop was the “bodega” right inside the village.  Pak Yaman, the owner and his family remembered that Taylor loves Sprite and offered us some right away.   We chatted for a while before snapping a photo with everyone.
Taylor with Pak Yaman and family :)
The next stop was this lovely old woman’s house.  She used to have a coffee stand outside her house and I've been there for coffee the last two times I've visited.  We found her outside shucking corn and when she saw us she immediately invited us in and went to the kitchen to make her specialty, the most delicious coffee you will ever taste!  We think it’s actually instant coffee, but it’s just so good black and with no milk (the sugar is already in it).  We sat and drank the coffee while she continued shucking and then asked for photos with her before leaving.
Me with our coffee lady
Drinking the delicious liquid

Finally, we visited the street Taylor lived on.  His house was on the end and was connected by one wall and a shared porch to about 4 other homes.  Those families were Taylor’s neighbors when he lived in the village, and they took great care of him.  They would bring him dinner, help him if he was sick, and even clean his house for about $.50!  

We visited with them, saw how much all of their children had grown in 3 years (and how many new ones they had had!) and learned of the unfortunate passing of a couple of old neighbors.  In fact, they had a framed photo of Taylor with two of the family patriarchs who had since died.  
Taylor with the photo
It was a beautiful time.  We also held some babies and posed for photos with them all before leaving.
In front of his old house with a neighbor
The whole gang
With a few neighbors...check out the height differential!
After we left the village, we walked to the school, which is close by.  On the way we checked out all the new buildings that the head of the school has built in the last 3 years, probably about 8 of them in all including a HUGE mosque and a guesthouse for parents who visit the school (it’s a boarding school).
Taylor with all the new buildings
We were at the school for a while, waiting for the car to take us to Surabaya.  After almost an hour, Mr. Cecep told us that our surprise was on it’s way.  Up walk two students with pieces of paper on which they had meticulously sketched each of us in pencil!  Both sketches were very good, right down to Taylor’s droopy left eye and the jilbob (head scarf) that I was wearing for modesty reasons at the school.  Such a touching gift!  We thanked them profusely and before saying goodbye to everyone and heading out.
Taylor and I with our respective artists
We had a full car leaving the school.  It was the driver, Taylor, myself, Tutik, her son Erland, a former student Radiv (who had traveled 6 hours just to see Taylor) and another teacher.

We arrived in Surabaya and our first stop was the mall.  I had a few items to buy from the store, and we all got lunch in the food court.  They took us to our hotel right after that for some much-needed rest.  It was sad to say goodbye, especially since we don’t know when we will be back, but we just said, we will see you, “Inshala,” which means in Arabic, God-willing.
Radiv, Taylor and another teacher
Erland, Ferry, Taylor, myself and Tutik (it's not goodbye it's see you later!)
At the Novotel, we checked into our room which was unfortunately in the only un-renovated section of the hotel (apparently they did not know who they were dealing with, the hotel model).  We took a quick dip in the pool and I decided to get a massage ($12 for an hour).  The massage was amazing and afterward we cleaned up and got ready for our last night on the town in Surabaya (at the mall of course!).

My goal at the mall was to get a manicure and have a donut (for dinner, yes).  I succeeded in both and we headed back to the Novotel for some rest.

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Sunday, June 23, 2013

30 Before 30: Our long trip! Jakarta for Muriel and Kennedy's wedding

June 15, 2013 - Jakarta

We arrived in Jakarta safe and sound and after collecting our bags, procured some cash from an ATM, iced coffees, donuts, and a taxi to take us to our hotel for $25.  We checked into our hotel, the Grand Kemang and headed to our room to relax.

At 6pm, we got dressed and headed to the lobby to meet back up with JP and Lydia and also with the other friends from Michigan who came in for the wedding, Prerak, Alli, Dave, Maren, Christine and Ashley.  We had a couple of beers, caught up on southeast Asia travel stories, and JP made the announcement about he and Lydia’s engagement before we headed out to Muriel’s house for a wedding welcome dinner.
(most of) the crew
Jakarta is notorious for many things, among them horrible traffic and cab drivers who don’t know where they are going; partially because not all roads in Jakarta are on the map. Muriel’s was one of those roads.  It took us 30 minutes and probably stopping to ask 10 different people for directions before we located it on tiny sidestreet Jl.K.H.Naim3B (yes, that’s the street name and yes there’s a Jl.K.H.Naim1,2 and 3A before you get to 3B) not 2 km from our hotel.  Another car full of people was even more lost and actually ended up giving up and returning to the hotel, where Muriel sent her driver (yes, they have a private driver which is not that unusual in Jakarta)  to retrieve them.

The dinner at Muriel’s father’s house was amazing.  They have a beautiful home with an even more beautiful backyard and pool.  They had a spread of traditional Indonesian food and Bintang beer for dinner.  Muriel’s future husband is Nigerian, so a bunch of his family and friends from Nigeria, London and Chicago were already there and it was great to meet them.  
Muriel's house from the outside
Pool!
Everyone eating


During the dinner, Muriel took us up to her room to pick out Kebayas to borrow for the wedding.  Kebaya is a traditional formal Indonesian outfit that consists of a Sarong bottom and a beautiful lace and sheer beaded top with a corset under it.  

We found one that fit me and a matching Sarong and I started to worry about how I would put the outfit together on my own before the wedding. 

June 16, 2013 – Muriel’s wedding day in Jakarta!

Taylor and I headed out to the mall in search of a wedding gift for Muriel and Kennedy (we did not know that it’s traditional just to give money, oops!) and a corset for me to wear under my Kebaya.  The corset proved to be the easy part, the girl in the lingerie department sized me up and immediately decided I am an Indonesian XXL.  At just $9 it was a steal and I also think I’ll just wear it every day because it is so slimming!

We had a little more trouble finding a gift for Muriel and Kennedy but settled on some Libbey Glass wine glasses because Libbey is actually a Toledo company and the classes were called “Arbor” as in Ann Arbor where we all met.  We eventually also located supplies to wrap the gift and made it back to the hotel just before we were supposed to beet Taylor’s family for lunch.

His family picked us up at the hotel and told us we would be going to a mall to grab lunch. They took us to the basement food court which had delicious Indonesian dishes.  We had lunch with Taylor’s grandmother’s sister, Tanta Hettie, her daughter Nancy and her husband, and Nancy’s two daughters Mela and Maureen, their significant others and their children.  Altogether there were 13 of us!  It was a blast and we got some great photos with the family as well. 

Everyone
After lunch, we rushed back to the hotel to sneak in a quick rest and get ready for the wedding.  It only took me about 4 tries to get the kebaya and sarong on just so that they fit, didn’t look horrendous, and still allowed me to walk in my platform heels.

The wedding was held at the Ritz Carlton on the beautiful 8th floor veranda with an outdoor bar and lots of seating areas and an adjoining (and thankfully air-conditioned!) room where the ceremony and meal took place.

There ceremony itself was beautiful!  It was divided into 3 parts, Muslim, Christian and Javanese.  The Muslim part came first and was I believe a fairly traditional Muslim wedding where the parents, the couple, and the officiant sit at a table. They briefly recited Christian vows before moving on to the longer and more symbolic Javanese wedding.  This portion consisted of lots of symbolic activities such as Kennedy presenting Muriel’s dad with some bananas and a Koran, Muriel and Kennedy throwing banana-leaf darts at each other, Muriel washing Kennedy’s feet, and both of them being prayed over by their parents.  It was really beautiful.

Muriel and some of her family
The whole Michigan crew in our "traditional" garb (Kebayas for the girls and Batik for the boys)
The boys in their Batik
Taylor and I 
The Bride and Groom in their traditional outfits
Another interesting part of the ceremony is where a bunch of housewares are placed at the front of the room and the guests are told to run up and grab one for themselves.  Everyone was pretty excited about their loot!


After the ceremony, the reception consisted of some of the best food I’ve ever had and lots of mingling.  One interesting thing about Indonesian weddings is that many more people come to the reception than the ceremony.   There are no “formal” activities like the garter/bouquet toss, first dance (no dancing at all, in fact), etc.  
With the Bride!
View of some of the surrounding buildings from the reception location
Many people came and went while we held down the fort like good Americans, drinking our share and playing drinking games like “Never have I ever” and “Boxers or briefs” (that one was new to me too).

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Wednesday, June 19, 2013

30 Before 30: Our long trip! Lombok and Gili Meno

June 12, 2013 - Bali to Lombok

The flight to Lombok was only a half an hour and was pretty smooth…until we landed. When we landed in Lombok, we didn't recognize the airport at all.  Taylor went to investigated and found that we were actually at a new airport on Lombok about an hour and a half away from our hotel. At first we thought we had flown to the wrong airport, but then we were told that Lombok actually closed their old airport and opened a completely new one last year.  Who knew you could do that! 

We arrived at the Sheraton in Senggigi, the tourist area of Lombok, at around 7pm and checked in. Just like at the Le Meridien, we received an automatic upgrade, this time to the “Grand Suite.”  It was a beautiful room with a full living room, dining room (totally unnecessary!) and bedroom along with a full bathroom and a half bath as well, which did come in handy. 


Living Room
Dining Room

Bedroom
We also had a HUGE balcony/porch which had a view right out to the ocean!
Balcony

View from our Balcony
After we got settled in our room, we ventured out to explore the resort. Our balcony stepped right out into the pool area which was in the center of lush gardens leading right out to the beach. Also just outside our hotel room was the pool bar.  They had happy hour from 6-8pm, buy one get one free, so of course we were there every night to enjoy sunset and have drinks.

After drinks, we headed out for dinner in Senggig. We ended up at a 2-story restaurant called Taman. I really enjoyed the curry I ordered. After eating and listening to the music a little, we headed back to the resort for some rest.

June 13, 2013 – Lombok and Gili Meno

We had arranged transport to Gili Meno the night before, so we ate breakfast and were ready at 8:30am to travel to the famed Gili islands. The Gilis, off the cost of Lombok, are renowned because they are extremely remote (no cars or police on the islands) and beautiful, with picturesque beaches and coral reefs you can snorkel right off the shore. 

We arrived at Gili Meno a little after 10am and headed out to explore the island. Our first stop was a bird park which had tons of different kinds of birds including macaws, peacocks, etc. They even had a monitor lizard (similar to a Komodo Dragon) and let you hold some of the birds for photos.
Macaws


Huge Bird!
Monitor Lizard, same thing as the Komodo Dragon but not from Komodo
After the bird park, we headed out in search of a beach. It took a while, but eventually we reached the far side of the island which is supposed to have the best snorkeling. Unfortunately, the beach had a lot of coral rather than sand and wasn’t great for relaxing. Taylor and I did some snorkeling, which was great, while JP and Lydia sought shade and a breeze on a second-story bungalow overlooking the beach.

After snorkeling we headed up the beach toward an area of restaurants and bars where we opted to grab some food and drinks in bungalows on the beach. 
Gili Meno
Gili Meno
Back at the Sheraton, we spent a couple of hours just lying by the beach and pool. Then we went to shower and clean up and grabbed drinks again at the beachside bar. We decided to spend our evening separate from JP and Lydia, so Taylor and I headed in to town in search of dinner. We ended up at a little café attached to a guesthouse where we ordered a whole pitcher of Sangria along with our dinner. After dinner/copious Sangria, we headed back to our hotel and went to bed because I had to be up at 2:30am for a work meeting (ugh).

June 14, 2013 – Lombok

We spent the entire day on Friday relaxing at our hotel which was amazing. Taylor and I played tennis for an hour before grabbing breakfast and putting on our suits to just hang by the beach and pool. 

Tiki God slide!
Posing just like the crocodile!

At one point the boys got adventurous and each of them tried their hand at wakeboarding:
J.P.

Taylor, thumbs up! 
Tired from wakeboarding!
It was amazingly relaxing. We didn’t get out of our bathing suits until about 5pm. Then we got drinks and watched the sunset at the bar.
Finally!  A nice sunset!
After drinks, we headed out to a spa we had seen the night before. After our spa time, we headed out in search of the boys and found them down the street smoking a hookah. We headed to dinner at a place called Happy Café that Taylor and I had been to before. They have great live music, but the place was way too hot (no breeze whatsoever) and pretty loud. The food was mediocre. It was entertaining to sit there thought, because there was a group of either Dutch or Australian middle-aged tourists who were mostly wasted and pretty funny.

After our meal, we headed back to the hotel. I had a work meeting at 11pm and went to bed right after it.

June 15, 2013 – Lombok to Jakarta

We woke up at around 8am and packed our things to head to Jakarta for our friend Muriel’s wedding.

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